Tonight, maybe, India. At last. Will not know if I have a visa until it’s time to catch a taxi to the airport. Suitcase zipped and ready though it was impossible to know what to pack: what do you wear to the greatest – I think that means the most beautiful, crowded, intense and wrenching – human parade on earth? How to dress for the company of Ram and Sita, Shiva and Parvati, Ganga, Ganesh? No trip has gripped me this way for years. Can’t remember when I last got on a plane bound for a mythic land that I’ve been dreaming of for years. First journey to Europe, maybe.