Beautiful weekend. I crawled out of the tent at 5:00, with salt in my eyebrows and smoke in my clothes, to see the sun rising over Saudi Arabia across the water. The desert is an absolute, like night or the sea, nonnegotiable, and thus a relief. Profound silence. We not only saw Orion but the tiny shimmering dagger that hangs from his belt. Meanwhile the girls revert to a wild state somehow remembered, wandering without looking up, giving an hour’s full concentration to the slosh of mud up their ankles.